Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Marché Bastille Sunday 22 May


entertainment at the Marché Bastille
horse meat stall

                                            


Dot and Ivy suggested we go to the Marché Bastille and it is the best market we have ever been to. Better than the Vic Market. However, no snails there on the day we went. We usually go to the  Marché Grenelle on a Sunday and there is an excellent snail stall. The Marché Bastille is an open-air market with stalls of every description, fresh produce and variety, stretching between the Bastille and Boulevard Richard-Lenoir in the 11e.


produce from Corsica










à bientôt

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Promenade Plantée Thursday 19 May

Bois de Vincennes Ferris Wheel
Kaye and Gordon are here in Paris. They are trekking around parts of France.

For a walk in Paris, the four of us walked along the Promenade Plantée to the Bois de Vincennes.
The Promenade Plantée or "walk with trees" is in the 12th  arrondissement. It is a 4.5 kilometre park where most of the way is above street level.
It is a rail trail on an abandoned 19th century viaduct. It runs from Operá Bastille to the eastern city limits ending up near a woodland, park area, the Bois de Vincennes.





Kaye and I in the Bois de Vincennes

Friday, May 20, 2011

Müenchen 13 May to 16 May

On the Friday, we went to Munich by train. Paris Est to Stuttgart took 3 and a half hours. Stuttgart to Munich took 2 and a quarter hours. There and back used up 2 of our Eurail pass days. 
We have now used only 3 days and they have already practically paid for themselves.
Our meals to Munich were included and also wine with dinner. We have a select pass (a group pass - and 2 people constitute a group - except we have to travel together!) and you travel 1st class. We bought the pass with an extra day included.


Had a wonderful time in Munich. Visited Adrian and Karina.They were great hosts.
We got off the train at Augsburg to meet up with Adrian.  He works for MAN Diesel at Augsburg. He showed us around the buildings and we did a  MAN Diesel museum tour. MAN Diesel make diesel engines for ships, buses etc.

Adrian drove us back to their place on the autobahn. We got up to 220 kilometres an hour a few times and I wasn't quite under the seat.


tunnel leading to elevator to Kehlsteinhaus

On Saturday morning, we visited Kehlsteinhaus, also known as Hitler's Eagle Nest, Alderhorst, the surviving part of Hitler's residence near Berchtesgaten, Upper Bavaria. It is about 5 kilometres from the Austrian border and 220 kilometre from Pasing, where Adrian and Karina live. The town of Berchtesgaten is set in beautiful Alpine scenery on the River Ache at the foot of the Watzmann mountain, which at 2713 metres is Germany's second highest peak.
To get to the Eagle's Nest which is on the summit of Mt Kehlstein, you wind your way up along hairpin bends to a height of 1600 metres. A shuttle bus then takes you further up the mountain. The views from the bus are stunning. The bus takes you to the entrance of a tunnel which leads to an elevator that takes you up to the house.
The elevator shaft is cut into the rock.



our view of the Bavarian Alps




The views from the house are magnificent. However, as you can see, when we were there it was a rather cloudy, cold, miserable morning.
our view of the Bavarian Alps









While we were in the restaurant, the clouds dropped for about  a minute and we caught a very short glimpse of the Alps.





 
In the afternoon, we then took a boat trip on
Lake Königssee in Berchtesgaden. A lake with crystal-clear water in a fjord-like setting between mountain ridges and is Bavaria's loveliest lake. It is part of a national park. The scenery is breathtaking with snow covered Alpine slopes, stunning rock formations, waterfalls and echoing cliffs. At a particular point, they stopped the boat and the captain played a trumpet and the cliffs echoed back the sounds. Quite eerie.

As you can see, the weather had cleared up by then.





 


The electric powered boat took us to the Pilgrimage church of Saint Bartholomä, built about 1700.









 
half a pork knuckle


On the Sunday, Adrian insisted that we had to have a pork knuckle meal so we had lunch at Haxnbauer in Müenchen.

Pork knuckle with Knödel which is a potato and flour ball with a crouton of bread in the middle.
A bowl of  sauerkraut was also served.
All rather delicious.


After lunch we went on a city sightseeing tour. The first bus tour we have ever had. It was excellent and because we had very little time in Munich, it was a good way to see the town hall, pubs, beer gardens, churches, monuments, museums and government buildings.

 
 

Schloss Nymphenburg "Nymph's Castle". 

Visited Nymphenburg Palace on the Monday morning. It was built around 1663. A Baroque palace. It was the main summer residence of the rulers of Bavaria.  The palace together with its park is one of the most famous sights in Munich. The grounds are huge and beautiful. It is one of the world's biggest  inner city parks.

 


.....and of course over the weekend we tasted numerous German beers.


auf wiedersehen


Le Havre Monday 9 May 

Bassin du Commerce dock Le Havre
Geoffrey and I are still having a wonderful stay in Paris. We are now doing a few day trips and enjoying the French countryside. In March, on the internet, we bought a 7 day Eurail Select Pass for 3 Countries. We used one day to go to Le Havre.  Le Havre is on the coast in Upper Normandy, a 2 hour, 205 kilometre train trip out of Paris (not the fast train).
Geoffrey had bought a book The Belly of Paris by Émile Zola. The book is about the old Marché des Innocents, which is now Les Halles and is where our apartment is. The book cover illustration is from a painting ''The Square in Front of Les Halle", 1880, by Victor-Gabriel Gilbert. The painting is part of the collection at Musée des Beaux-Artes Andre Malraux, Le Havre.
However, when we got there, the painting, at the moment, is not on exhibition. The same happened when Robert and I visited  the Musée d'Orsay with the painting Starry Night by Vincent van Gogh. It wasn't on exhibition either. Luckily, I had seen it last time we were in Paris and also when it was at the National Gallery of Victoria.
Another thing about Le Havre is that Claude Monet lived there as a child and teenager and of course painted many paintings of that area such as Fishing Boats Leaving the Harbour, Le Havre, 1874.





Musée des Beaux-Artes Andre Malraux, Le Havre Portrait de Nini Lopez 1876
Auguste Renoir






 

Bois de Boulogne  Tuesday 10 May

We are now enjoying visiting places around Paris that an extended visit allows and loving it.

We had a lovely stroll around the Bois de Boulogne which is on the western edge of Paris. This is part of what used to be a natural forest in that part of France. It is a preserved piece of forest. There's ponds, lakes, gardens, sports areas and children's playgrounds.










Monet's Garden Giverny Wednesday 11 May

Dot and Ivy from down our way, are here in Paris at the moment. We had a ladies day out to Monet's Gardens at Giverny.  This was a beautiful sunny day and the gardens were magnificent.
It was such a pleasure to see the pond area that Monet used when painting his waterlily paintings.
I have been to the Musée de l'Orangerie each time I have been in Paris, which is only twice and it remains the highlight of each trip. Being there and being able to look at  Monet's Nymphéas is just so wonderful to me and then to actually be in his garden made me very happy.






Belleville Area  Thursday 12 May
Sometimes we hop on the Metro and just have a look at a particular area.
Édith Piaff was born in the Belleville area.
We also had a wander around the Cimitière du Père Lanchaise with its cobbled lanes and large tombs.
Édith Piaff is buried there, also Chopin, Proust, Delacroix and  Modigliani, to name but a few and also Molière, the French playwright is also buried there.

à bientôt  

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Voltaire

5 March 2011
Walked to the left bank to take a photo of  Geoffrey with Voltaire which proved far too difficult for me as you can see.









Voltaire
French writer (1694-1778)
Square Honoré Champion, 6th arrondissement
The State commissioned Léon Drivier to make this statue of Voltaire to replace Caillé’s statue which was melted down during World War II. The new stone statue was supposed to fit the old statue’s pedestal located on Quai Malaquais. But its reduced scale, its more modern style, and certain academicians’ desire to clear the area around their Institut resulted in a controversial removal of the great man to one of the recently created small squares behind the Institut. Intense debates on the aesthetics and politics of such a drastic move dragged on for so long that Drivier’s piece, created right after the war, didn’t take its rightful place in the greenery until 1962, well after the sculptor’s death.

Statue of Henri IV on le Pont Neuf


On the way back home we saw the Highlander Pub and the Arsenal vs Sunderland game for 16h00 was going to be shown, so we went back for the kick-off.

The Highlander Pub is on the left bank, opposite the Pont Neuf.
THE HIGHLANDER is THE Scottish pub in Paris.



à bientôt

Place de la Rébublique

The walk to la Place de la République 
23 March 2011

We walked to la Place de la Rébublique which was named to commemorate the First, Second and Third French Republics.

A republic is a form of government, is not hereditary, in which the governors are appointed by the election of the people, or part thereof.
The term republic opposed to those of kingship or empire.


At the center of the Place de la République is a 10m high statue called République set on top of a monument to the history of the formation of the Republic. This statue dates from 1883 and was made by Dalou. Place de la République forms the junction of 3 arrondissements (districts) of Paris, the 3e, 11e and 12e.






Then we walked to Canal Saint-Martin and as we stood on a footbridge at the end of Boulevard Jules Ferry, down the canal, you could see a boat coming towards us in the distance and waiting to begin  to come through the locks and down into a tunnel under the footbridge where we standing, down under la Place de la Bastille and into the open at Port de l"Arsenal, and then into la Seine.








We continued to walk along the side of the Canal to rue du Terrage. We had considered renting an apartment in that area. In retrospect, we are pleased we chose to live where we are. It is like a rough dormitory section with few services any we did not see any suitable butchers or greengrocers etc. This area is near la gare de l'Est which has a large under cover shopping centre attached. At la Gare de l'Est, Boulevard du Strasbourg ends there. Boulevard du Strasbourg is a continuation of Boulevard Sebastopol.

à bientôt

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Place de la Bastille

Sometimes, before we go out walking to a particular area, we refer to the book Paris Walks by Fiona Duncan and Leonie Glass. Geoffrey used to borrow it from the Melbourne City Library, however, we have now bought a copy and I highly recommend it. The aerial-view-isometric-mapping used to illustrate the walks make it very easy to follow.

I get a bit behind with the "blog". This particular walk was on Monday 7 March.

It was a day of following your nose and seeing where you end up, although we knew where we wanted to end up. From our place, we walked along back streets that run parallel with rue de Rivoli and close to the Seine.
We were in the Marais district. Le marais - marsh. I like this area of Paris. It is crammed with ancient buildings, beautiful mansions.You can take a side step and find yourself in a narrow laneway or in a courtyard. In rue François-Miron, you pass two medieval, narrow, crooked half timbered houses.






Along rue Saint-Antoine, past  l'Eglise Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis and through the narrow cobbled passage de St-Paul and into rue Saint-Paul.


Geoffrey and Penelope



We never go anywhere without revisiting a bookshop that Geoffrey already knows about and frequents.
The Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore is in 22 rue Saint-Paul. This is him with  Penelope, the owner of the shop. 










Then, down rue des Jardins St Paul, through a courtyard, you find yourself on the far side of a school playground, enclosed by a 70m stretch of ancient wall, the most substantial relic of Philip Augustus' 1190 fortifications. In the background is l'Eglise Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis








part of the Roman wall








Went into Village Saint-Paul, a series of interconnecting cobbled courtyards surrounded by workshops, galleries, antique and craft shops.

We then reached the Seine at the narrow point of Île Saint-Louis, square Barye at Pont de Sully and Boulevarde Henri IV. Pont de Sully is a bridge across the River Seine. In reality, two separate bridges meeting on the eastern tip of Île Saint Louis, it links the 4e and 5e arrondissements along the line of the Boulevard Henri IV and connects to the eastern end of Boulevard Saint-Germain.


We continued along Quai Henri IV.


a sit down in the sun along Quai Henri IV
Then to Pont Morland which is a bridge  located between the 4e and the 12e arrondissiments of Paris. The bridge crosses at the lock of of the Arsenal at the confluence of the Port de Plaisance de l'Arsenal and de la Seine, between the Boulevard Morland in the 4e arrondissiment and the Quai de Rappée in the 5e arrondissiment.

on Pont Morland with Quai Henri IV in the background



on Pont Morland with Pont de Sully in the background





Then when you go to the other side of the bridge,
you are looking at Port de Plaisance de l'Arsenal
(Port of Pleasure),with La Colonne de Juillet à la Place de la Bastille in the background.





This is at the confluence of the Port de Plaisance de l'Arsenal and de la Seine.

If you take a canal boat trip from le Musée d' Orsay, this is where you come from la Seine, under the Pont Morland, via the lock of the Arsenal.





La Colonne de Juillet à la Place de la Bastille
Le Port de Plaisance de l'Arsenal leads to la Colonne de Juillet à la Place de la Bastille.

The Column of July is in commemoration of des "Trois Glorieuses". These "Three Days" of the revolution of the 27, 28, 29 July 1830 led to the fall of Charles X and the absolute monarchy and the establishment of the constitutional monarchy with the reign of Louis-Philippe 1er, duc d'Orléans, became King of the French (July Monarchy).
The shaft of the column bears the names of the victims of the revolutionary days of July 1830. At the summit is the ball which flies le"Genié de la Liberté", (Genius of Liberty).  A sculpture in gilded bronze of Auguste Dumont. He is naked, left foot on the sphere, lifted right leg, wings, a star on the front. The left hand supports the broken chains of depotism, while his right hand brandishes the torch of civilisation.

The Bastille, or more exactly, the Bastille Saint-Antoine, was a fortress at the location of the current Place de la Bastille. It was completely destroyed after the storming of the Bastille on 14 July 1789.




la Colonne de Juillet à la Place de la Bastille
Revolutionaries from the uprising of 1830 are buried underneath.
 
 L' Opéra Bastille is located in the 12e arrondissiment à la place de la Bastille.

We continued our walk into la Place des Vosges and then meandered home.


la place des Vosges in front of statue of  Louis XIII

à bientôt


Footnote from Le Copilote

I have had a quick look over what Elizabeth has said about today. Yes, that is pretty much as it happened. There are a few pictures of me too.  One as part of a wall and the others puzzling over what the word confluence means.

The picture with the caption "a sit down in the sun along Quai Henri IV" is special to me because Henry IV was the one who said  "A kingdom is worth a Mass" and because he was murdered just here on the street in front of our appartment by a catholic person.

Leaves are starting to appear on trees.  The types of flowers that come up from bulbs are starting to appear.  It seems that Paris will soon be prettier than Melbourne can ever be.  The changes in the gardens force me to understand that we  don't really have seasons in our part of Australia. Not like European ones anyway. 



Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Twechar

I was born in the house behind me
On Monday, we returned from 4 days in Twechar, Scotland. I was born in Twechar. We stayed with my cousin Catherine. Most of the time, we were with Catherine and her sisters Bridget and Mary and Bridget's daughter, Ann. My second cousin Francis picked us up at the Glasgow International Airport. Catherine B McC and Elizabeth drove us around everywhere. In Glasgow, we went to the birthday party of Amy, the granddaughter of my cousin Jack. Jack's son, Joseph, who is my second cousin and his family, Karen and Amy visited us in Paris. Joe is the one who sent us the Scottish biscuits. Jack gave Geoffrey a bottle of 'aged malt' that Geoffrey left under a chair at the party......and I have not mentioned all the other members of the
behind our house my mother used to plant potatoes on this patch of green
family and their husbands and wives and partners and of course all their  beautiful children.  In Scotland, the Haughey family is rather big. We had a wonderful time.
At Amy's party, we were in a large room in a sport's club and they had the Celtic vs Rangers game on the large screen, so everyone was happy.






walking through the Glen behind our house
the view from the back of our house

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Brigade des Sapeurs-Pompiers de Paris

The fire service in France is known as "sapeurs-pompiers" and provide fire and rescue services.
The Paris fire brigade is a unit of the French Army's Engineering Arm. Technically, they are part of the armed forces. During the annual Bastille Day Parade, they march in uniform with rifles.
Pompier - firefighter,comes from the concept of pumping water and refers to the manual pumps that were originally used.
Sapeur - means sapper and refers to the first official unit created by Napoleon 1 which was part of the military engineering arm.
The members of the Brigade des Sapeurs-Pompiers de Paris are between 18-25 years old and part of their mission is "emergency ambulance".
 

Geoffrey and I are both well, however,
on Saturday, on our way to buy fish for
tea, on rue Montorgueil, we had just
the  fire truck
crossed rue Etienne Marcel and behind me I heard Geoffrey say, to wait, he had done something to his back. Had he tripped? - no. The pain had apparently just suddenly started. He was in pain and leaning against a lamp post. He managed to get himself into a nearby building and people quickly came to help. None of them could speak English and my French had gone out of my head again.  One of the men, Adissi, called for a doctor. Can you imagine what we thought when the fire brigade turned up. I really thought there was a fire somewhere, but no, the fire engine and the 8 attendants were for Geoffrey. Eight of them, young strapping, handsome men. Drissi had also called his Australian friend who turned up and helped with  translation.  A fire truck ambulance was called and off we went, including Drissi's Australian friend, to the hospital,  the Hôtel-Dieu de Paris, with the siren blaring. The hospital is on Ile de la Cité next to la Cathédrale Notre-Dame.




The pain Geoffrey had, stopped  as suddenly as it had started. He was discharged with medication and a referral to a radiologist. We walked home.

Of course, I am sure you will all be interested in what Geoffrey is going to give Adissi. Yes, a Collingwood 2010 Premiership cap. He deserved it.

Les biscuits écossais

Geoffrey was whinging about not being able to get good dry biscuits in Paris. Next thing there is a parcel in the post from Joe.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Going to Church

This is me at la PlaceVendôme. Originally called la Place des Conquêtes (Square of Conquests).  It is probably Paris' most expensive place. An octagonal square facing the west entrance to the Tuilerie Gardens. In 1796 Napoleon  married Josephine in a building here. The 43.5 metre bronze-and-stone column commemorates Napoleon's battle at Austerlitz.




and me at la statue de Joanne d'Arc at la Place des Pyramides
on Rue de Rivoli

We went to le Jardin des Plantes and strolled through the gardens
We feel at home here. Yesterday we went to du Muséum national d'Histoire naturelle en Jardin des Plantes. The gardens are of course beautiful, lots of plants and scenic paths for strolling. Geoffrey took my photo alongside a tree that was planted in
1734. We had gone there to buy a book on les dinosaures for Liam and we found ourselves in the main botanical garden of France and we did not visit la "Grande Galerie de l'Evolution" du Muséum national d'Histoire naturelle. Wednesday is not a school day and there were about 30 adults and children in the queue.  Of course, the gardens is a place we will need to visit again, just about like everything else. However, I must say that every other day we are crossing la Seine at Pont Neuf, a few minutes from where we live, or Pont d'Arcole, my favourite bridge, and past la Cathédrale Notre Dame.
We are taking nothing forgranted.
It is all wonderful.

The weather for the last 4 days has been really good. The days are sunny and
around 7 to 8 degrees, but through the night, the temperature drops to zero,
minus 1 or minus 2. The next 4 days it is going to continue to be sunny and
temperatures 4 - 12 degrees. We are quite happy with the weather.

We went to the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur a few days ago. The Basilica of the Sacred Heart on the hill of Montmarte which is visible from many parts of the city. On our last trip to Paris, we did not go there.
Work began on the church in 1875 and was completed in 1912 and consecrated in 1919.

We took le Métro to the Anvers station, meandered up rue de Steinkerque, passed Carrousel Venitien at la Place Saint-Pierre and boarded the Funiculaire de Montmarte which takes you to just below the church. At this time of year, there was no queue to board the funicular.
The day was sunny and 10 degrees, a bit misty and hazy. We could still enjoy the fantastic, panoramic views of Paris and could see la Tour Eiffel. You can see up to 30km on a clear day.

On the steps just before entering the church. people were sitting there and enjoying the winter sun and a man was playing a harp. The church  was magnificent. The stained glass windows, the mosaics, the dome, everything was breathtaking, I even touched the well rubbed "worn out" foot on la statue de Saint-Pierre. When we go to Rome, in June, I will go to Saint Peter's Basilica and touch the foot of the original statue de Saint-Pierre.
All the time in the church I was listening to the organ and the beautiful singing of the nuns.




they let me in
they let me out
the view was a bit hazy but still magnificent



Located on the north side of Sacré-Coeur is L'Église Saint-Pierre de Montmartre on the highest point in Paris, It is one of the oldest churches in Paris, consecrated in 1147. It was built on the site of a Roman temple. It is from this temple that the hill gets its name (Latin Mons Martis).
The site is traditionally associated with the beheading of the city's patron, Saint Denis around 250AD.After his head was chopped off, he picked it up and walked 10 kilometres preaching a sermon the entire way. The site where he stopped preaching and actually died is now the site of the Saint Denis Basilica.











Behind the Sacré-Coeur is la Place du Tertre, the main square of the original village. Even at this time of year, there were many artists painting in the square and tourists posing for a quick portrait.








We then meandered down and along Montmartre's narrow, winding streets. Had a beer and our first French  crèpe in one of the cafés.
 
à bientôt